Answer a few questions about your camera (or phone) and we'll tell you what settings to use tonight, using the live Kp index and current moon brightness. No photography jargon required.
Not sure about a number? Megapixels and sensor size are on your camera's spec sheet or box. Aperture (f-number) and focal length (mm) are printed right on the lens.
Open your aperture as wide as it goes (lowest f-number), then let the calculator's shutter speed and ISO guide your starting point. Take a test shot, look at it, and adjust. This tool gets you in the right neighborhood, not a perfect answer on the first try.
Brighter, faster-moving aurora (higher Kp) wants a shorter shutter speed so the pillars and curtains don't blur into a green smear. Fainter, calmer aurora wants a longer shutter speed to gather more light. A bright moon lets you use a lower ISO, but it also washes out faint aurora. That's a real tradeoff, not something to avoid.
Sensor size + megapixels determine how tightly packed your camera's pixels are, which affects how long you can leave the shutter open before stars start to blur into short streaks instead of points. We calculate this instead of asking you to look up "pixel pitch," a spec most people have never heard of.
Focal length and aperture come straight off your lens. A wider lens (smaller mm number) tolerates a longer shutter speed before star trails show up; a wider aperture (smaller f-number) lets in more light so you need less ISO or a shorter shutter.
Max ISO is just "how much grain are you willing to accept." There's no wrong answer. It's a personal preference based on your camera and how the photo will be used.
The shutter speed cap comes from the NPF rule: max seconds ≈ (35 × aperture + 30 × pixel pitch) ÷ focal length. It's more accurate than the older "500 rule" because it accounts for your sensor's actual resolution. A 61-megapixel camera shows star trails much sooner than a 12-megapixel one at the same settings, since its pixels are smaller and more sensitive to the tiniest bit of motion.
Phone cameras can absolutely capture the northern lights, but the settings work a little differently. On iPhone, the native Camera app doesn't expose manual shutter speed or ISO at all. You'll need a third-party app like Halide, ProShot, or Manual to get real control. On Android, many phones have a "Pro" or "Manual" mode built directly into the native camera app, which does give you shutter speed and ISO sliders.
Either way, ignore the aperture number this calculator gives you: phone lenses have a fixed aperture that can't be adjusted, unlike an interchangeable-lens camera. Just use the recommended shutter speed and ISO instead. iPhone's built-in Night Mode is also worth trying: it handles exposure automatically and can produce a usable shot even without a manual app, though with less control than dialing in your own settings.
Want the reasoning behind these numbers, a gear list to get started, or a sense of what the night actually involves? See Camera Settings Explained, the gear guide, and what to expect.
What camera settings should I use to photograph the aurora?
Start with your widest aperture, a shutter speed of 1-15 seconds depending on how fast the aurora is moving, and an ISO high enough to get a bright, visible frame, usually 1600-6400. Faster, brighter aurora needs a shorter shutter; faint, calm aurora benefits from a longer one.
How long should my shutter speed be for aurora photos?
It depends on how active the aurora is. Bright, fast-moving substorms look best at 1–4 seconds to keep the structure sharp. Faint, slow aurora can use 8–15 seconds to gather more light, up to the point where stars start to trail.
What ISO should I use for northern lights photography?
There's no single correct ISO. It depends on your camera's low-light performance and how much noise you're willing to accept. Most modern cameras handle ISO 1600-6400 well for aurora work; older or entry-level bodies may want to stay lower.
Do I need a full-frame camera to photograph the aurora?
No. Any camera with manual controls can capture the aurora, including many phones. A larger sensor helps in low light, but a fast, wide lens on a smaller sensor often outperforms a slow lens on a bigger one.
What camera settings should I use on iPhone for northern lights?
iPhone's native Camera app doesn't offer manual shutter speed or ISO control, and aperture is fixed and can't be changed. For real manual control, use a third-party app like Halide, ProShot, or Manual, then apply the shutter speed and ISO from this calculator. Ignore the aperture recommendation since your phone's lens doesn't allow it to change.
Can Android phones take northern lights photos?
Yes, many Android phones have a "Pro" or "Manual" mode built into the native camera app that gives you direct control over shutter speed and ISO, unlike iPhone. Use the shutter speed and ISO this calculator recommends; aperture is fixed on most phones and can't be adjusted.